Day 32, Alta to Skaidi (90 kms)

The EV1 route out of Alta next passes one of the most beautiful churches I've visited – the Northern Lights Cathedral, just on the north side of the town centre. Opened only in 2013, and designed by Norwegian architect Kolbjorn Jennsen, its extraordinary titanium exterior is inspired by the Northern Lights phenomenen itself. It reminded me, actually, of the Guggenheim Gallery in Bilbao.

The Northern Lights Cathedral, Alta

Inside, behind the altar, is a huge bronze figure of Christ on the Cross – except that we have to imagine the Cross. He appears as crucified, but also giving his blessing with his arms open to the congregation, looking upwards towards God as he takes his last breath. Danish artist Peter Brandes, the designer, says in the cathedral's pamphlet that he “does not look towards the ground [because] triumphant and bringing salvation he stands before us as the bearer of light and hope”. I felt it conveyed perfectly the idea of Jesus as both man and God. It seemed as if he was actually there.

The crucifixion figure of Christ, Alta Cathedral

After visiting the cathedral, and threading our way through a children's cycle race that was taking place outside, the Ven Claud and I left Alta on cycle paths before beginning the last major climb of the journey, up to 400 metres to a high plateau across the centre of what is now essentially a peninsula with Nordkapp at the top. On the plateau, it was a level, swooping and exhilarating ride for 50 or more kilometres – meadow pipits competing with the noise of motorbikes on the E6 highway – before we descended to the Goahtemourjohka River valley by the village of Skaidi. “Bonjour”, said the shopkeeper. “Do I look French?” I asked. I knew I hadn't shaved for a couple of days. No, he said, he was just guessing. It turns out he is the grandson of a Scot. His grandfather came to Norway in 1901 to work in the shipyards, but was sadly killed in an industrial accident four years later.

I camped for the night, there being no alternative spot, on a very midge-infested piece of moorland above the village.